A Wee Bit of Time in Stirling

On my last day in Scotland, I was on my own. Amanda, Kyle and Scott  were traveling to London to spend a few days. I started my day with my usual breakfast and then decided to put my time to good use by making a day trip to Stirling.

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My Scottish breakfasts

The train left quite often from the Waverley Station, which was only a fifteen minute walk from my hotel. I checked my bag since I was moving on to a new hotel and set out.

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The platform at Waverley Station

A round trip ticket to Stirling was only 9 pounds and was easy to buy at the train station. The train was fairly empty and very comfortable. I got a seat by the window at a table and then stared in amazement out the window for the hour-long ride.

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Riding to Stirling

There were lots of farms, tons of sheep and in the distance I could see snow-capped mountains, though I wasn’t able to capture much on my iPhone camera.

Stirling is adorable.

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Platform at Stirling train station.

The castle is easy to find and up a really, really big hill. Let’s just call it a small mountain.  The climb is totally worth it, there are a lot of really interesting things along the way.

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A random plaque for some guys who were hanged for the cause of justice and truth. Scotland is intense!

At the top of the hill, just outside the castle, is an amazing statue of Robert the Bruce.

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Robert the Bruce overlooking the town of Stirling.

I bought my ticket and went inside. Almost the entire castle is open for visitors to wander through, though only a few rooms have any furnishings. As I wandered about I ran into a few costumed staff people who were happy to tell stories about life in the castle.

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I finally found a knight in shining armor!

The castle was built by James V of Scotland as a wedding present so he and his French wife Marie de Guise would have a place where they could showcase how fantastic they were. There were symbols of their power, intelligence, and style throughout the building (their words, not mine!). For example, carved heads in the King’s Inner Hall were images of the King and then people he thought were in his class, ancient romans, demigods, royal ancestors, you know the usual. The Queens rooms were set up with replica furnishings and her bed was fantastic. Although, like most royals of the day, that was only for show and she actually slept in an adjacent closet that’s not much bigger than my closet at home! I wish I was important enough to have a fancy bed to lounge in while receive my most distinguished guests! Also, her receiving room had one chair. Nobody else was important enough to sit, I guess. Thinking about redoing the seating in my condo now…

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Nobody sits but the queen!

I loved the dining room. They had a long trestle table set up at the head of the room with two thrones and some benches. They faced the rest of the room where more trestle tables and benches would be set up for the lesser members of court and let’s just say if I had it to do over again, I’d have gone in a completely different direction when setting up my dining room back home!

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Redecorating idea for my condo. May need to make some expansions…

I climbed to the top of the castle and the views took my breath away.

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View of Stirling from the top of the castle.

 

Not just because I’d climbed to the top of a castle after I climbed a damn mountain to get there, either! It was glorious. On one side of the castle, fog was in the valley. On the other side I could see snow capped mountains and a very tall monument.

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View of surrounding countryside from the top of the castle.

Also in the castle is some sort of military museum. I vowed not to visit one of those since my divorce, but the lilting strains of the pipers piping drew me in! The highlights were some really cool costume displays…

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Who doesn’t love men in kilts?

and a list of rules for soldiers who wanted to marry…

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You had to REALLY want to get married to go through all this!

Afterwards I walked from the castle to the church next door. The Church of the Holy Rude is the second oldest building in Stirling (the castle is number one) and was originally building the 1100’s. It burned down in 1405 but was rebuilt shortly after. Scottish kings had coronations there, but sadly it’s closed to tourists in the winter. Though the graveyard isn’t!

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Seems so idyllic, but the frozen footpaths are deadly…

The graveyard has some very old monuments and tombstones. Near the back, and on a steep hill, there’s an overlook with an amazing view of the castle.

Stirling Castle as seen from Church of the Holy Rood.

Stirling Castle as seen from Church of the Holy Rude.

Getting down from there was really tricky. I wore my Chucks but even they didn’t have enough tread to keep me from slipping and sliding down the ice-covered path that led out of the cemetery. It’s a Christmas miracle I didn’t end up staying there forever… if you know what I mean.

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Beautiful cemetery, frozen but beautiful.

When I got back to the center of town I saw a sign that said “Fish and Chip Award Winner from Fish and Chip Awards” on No. 2 Baker Street, a little pub on the corner. Since I hadn’t had lunch yet and was cold and hungry after my near brush with death on the cemetery path, I decided to try it!

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Award winning fish and chips

I can see why they won. The fish and chips were amazing! Plus the pub was lively and I could see football on TV while I ate.

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Football (and by that I mean soccer) at the local pub!

I caught the train back to Edinburgh. I hated to leave Stirling, but the sun sets at 3:30 this time of year and I was hoping to walk to my next hotel. I picked up my bags and left my beautiful room at the Caledonian.

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Converted train station and one of the best hotels I’ve ever enjoyed.

I don’t remember why I thought it would be a good idea to leave the Waldorf Astoria and move to the Hilton. Maybe I thought there would be an executive lounge. Or a shuttle to the airport. Or a fancy suite because of my diamond status. There was none of that! My room wasn’t even in the same building! Instead I was across the street and on the top floor in what could only have been the servant’s quarters back in the day. They didn’t even give me my complimentary bottle of water!

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It’s no Waldorf Astoria!

I decided to try to find a pub to have some dinner. Luckily at the end of my street I found Haymarket.

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Popular pub with great haggis!

They were even having a special of haggis, tatties, and neeps with a pint for 9 pounds.

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Mmmmm haggis!

I trudged back to my room to pack for the flight home. At least there was the Virgin Clubhouse on my horizon!

 

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Boxing Day in the UK

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Stumbled across some random pipers!

It was nearing my time to leave Scotland, but there was still so much to see and do! I decided to get an early start. I walked all the way down the Royal Mile to visit the People’s Museum. I enjoyed the walk. Which was a good thing, since the museum was closed on Boxing Day. Somehow I found the Italian Secretary’s grave along the way.

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I think of Austin Powers every time I think of an Italian Secretary. I can just see Mary Queen of Scots saying, “Yeah I shagged him. I shagged him rotten baby!”

I was strolling back to my hotel when I saw a Hop On Hop Off tour bus roll by. That looked like fun and they had an upper deck that was open so I thought it would be a bit like riding in my convertible Mini. It was 36 degrees, but at home my minimum temperature is 35 so I wasn’t worried about the weather at all.

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In the future, my minimum top down temperature will be entirely dependent on access to heated seats. And heaters.

While I waited for the bus, I toured St John’s Church. It’s the church I can see from my hotel room, and the exterior was very gothic. The interior was beautiful and the light fixtures really reminded me of a church Jenni and I visited in France or Hogwarts.

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Like a church in Paris. Or Hogwarts.

Right when I left the bus showed up! What I failed to take into account when I boarded the upper deck of the bus was the lack of heated seats. Or a heater of any kind.

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In the future my minimum top off temperature will be entirely dependent on the availability of heated seats. And heaters.

We rolled trough Old Town. I saw a few new sights, like Bedlam, and hard some harrowing tales, like the way the nurses treated the patients. Dreadful!

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Bedlam, the insane asylum.

Right before the frostbite really took hold, Amanda texted me to let me know they were ready and wanted to meet me at the Christmas Market to ride the Big Wheel.

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Big Wheel at the Christmas Market.

I got off the bus near the Christmas Market, had a sausage and a hot apple toddy, and waited for them to arrive. The girl with the green hair from the Christmas Tree Maze was taking tickets so we were able to catch up while we waited to board. Apparently, she’d spiked her Mohawk on Christmas Eve. I bet it looked fantastic and I’m sorry we missed that!

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Kyle loved it. Amanda was slightly less excited.

The view from the top of the Big Wheel was stunning. Scott and Amanda didn’t like being suspended so high in a tiny little death trap, but Kyle and I loved it!

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Big fun on the Big Wheel.

We had a lot of fun taking selfies.

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It’s selfie time!

The kids wanted to go to the mall to pick up a few things for their trip to London, but I wanted to visit the National Museum. We decided to met up at the Jolly Judge later.

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There are lots and lots of stairs in Edinburgh.

I hiked back up another 15,000 steps, past the Royal Mile and down to the National Museum, which was one of the only museums open on Boxing Day. Open, unless museum workers are on strike that is…

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The one day museum workers strike is the day I set aside to visit museums. I still support their cause!

When I got there I discovered that museum workers were on strike. Since I’d passed Greyfriars Kirk along the way, I decided to pass some time checking it out. Creepy!

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Martyrs Monument in the Greyfriar Kirkyard.

The kirkyard has been around since the 1500s and is adjacent to the Grassmarket, which I learned on the bus tour was where all the rogues, whores and thieves lived and the hangings took place. There were a lot of unsavory characters buried there!

And apparently Edinburgh had a big problem with grave robbers trying to supply Edinburgh Medical School with cadavers, so a lot of the graves are really locked up tight with iron bars and padlocks, though I would hope there isn’t a lot of grave robbing going on anymore!

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Some of the creepiest things I saw in Greyfriars Kirkyard. And it was hard to pick a few because there was a lot!

When I met Scott, Kyle, and Amanda, they’d finished their shopping and were having a pint at the Jolly Judge. It’s a charming little pub down a close off the Royal Mile.

Excellent pub off the Royal Mile. But good luck finding it!

Excellent pub off the Royal Mile. But good luck finding it!

I tried a winter brew (delicious) and we talked about our plans for the rest of the evening. Since our Whisky tasting wasn’t until 6, we had enough time to do a mini pub crawl. Our next stop was Frankenstein, a horror themed bar.

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Kyle, Amanda, and Frank.

I wasn’t scared so much as entertained. I love a theme!

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Sherri and Frank.

The decor just screamed Frankenstein’s lab. Kyle tried the Dr Frankenstein and I had the Bloody Mary Shelley. Amanda and Scott stuck to drinks they knew.

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Frankenstein themed drinks before and after.

We walked just down the block to Greyfriars Bobby. It’s right outside the gate of the Greyfriars Kirkyard, but I wasn’t going to let that stop me. Sadly, we didn’t think we’d have enough time to finish a drink before our whisky tasting at the Whisky Room so we gave up and went there instead.

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Super charming pub. It’s a shame we didn’t have time for a pint!

The whisky tasting was very instructive. I learned I don’t really care for peaty whisky and that when mixed with a little tap water whisky is actually palatable. Unless it’s too peaty in which case nothing can save it.

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Working your way from left to right. The farther you go the peatier they get!

Our whisky instructor (?) asked us to pick them up one at a time and small them and try to identify the flavors. Most people made up random things like campfires or cherries. Amanda said the underside of some guy’s kilt, which the instructor heard her and then shouted across the bar to his friend. That was my highlight.

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Our instrutor didn’t seem to be having much fun until her heard the notes Amanda got from her whisky.

We stayed at the Whisky Room for dinner after the tasting. Kyle and I wanted some haggis but not an entire plate of it. I still wasn’t certain I’d like it because a lot of people (Amanda) don’t and tried to tell me I wouldn’t! The waitress told us there were haggis spring rolls for an appetizer so we decided to spilt it. It was delicious, and not just because it was rolled in a wonton wrapper and fried!

Haggis spring rolls. Mmmmmmm...

Haggis spring rolls. Mmmmmmm…

I also had the stake and ale pie, comfort food, very comforting! When we finished we decided to go see a movie. Amanda and Scott choose poorly and went for Big Eyes. Kyle and I went to see The Hobbit. Two thumbs up, way up! I don’t actually remember anything that happened in any of the other movies because I have the memory of a goldfish, but I still loved it! I don’t want to spoil it if you haven’t seen it yet, but my advice is take some tissues! I cried through the entire second half!

Kyle, Scott and Amanda walked me back to the hotel and said goodbye. Tomorrow they are off to London and I’m going to ride up to Stirling before I head home!

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Happy Christmas, Everyone!

Happy Christmas, friends!

Happy Christmas, friends!

The morning started late. ‘Cause we are really far from the equator! I was up well before the sun, but since Amanda, Kyle, and Scott are really, really young they obviously weren’t. I caught up on some blog posts while I was waiting for them. By the time they got up and texted me, I was ready to go and grabbed their gifts and headed out!

When I arrived, Amanda had already fixed some delicious breakfast burritos. It was the second actual meal I’ve had in this country!

Best breakfast burrito I've ever had. Thanks Amanda!

Best breakfast burritos I’ve ever had. Thanks Amanda!

Our presents were arranged under the tree, or in this case beside the tree.

They aren't really giant presents. It's a tiny tree.

They aren’t really giant presents. It’s a tiny tree.

Amanda gave me a delicious chocolate lock and key and a beautiful print of Scotland from a local artist.

Places I've seen, people I've wanted to see.

Places I’ve seen, people I’ve wanted to see.

She loved the mug I got her.

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Amanda is super passionate about her tea time.

I’d gotten Magic Mike for Kyle (in the hopes that he’d want to watch it right away since I haven’t seen it yet. Sadly, that didn’t work out because he was all about the Christmas movies). I got Scott a book of rap lyrics broken down so you and your grandparents can understand them. If I have time I might need to pick up another one of those. It was very funny and super useful!

After lunch, Amanda suggested a walk to Coltan Hill. It’s a hill that overlooks much of the city and has several Scottish monuments. To get there we strolled down the Royal Mile. Along the way we saw a street performer…

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At one point there were flaming torches…

Helpful tips for American tourists…

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We couldn’t figure out the first word we aren’t supposed to say. So apologies if it’s slipped out!

And random monuments.

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I wish there was a way to stream the Chariots of Fire theme for you while you read this.

At the end of the Royal Mile is Holyrood Palace. Scott hadn’t been yet so we walked around the side so he could see it. It was still glorious!

We walked through a cemetery outside of Cannongate Kirk. Lots of old tombstones!

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The ivy in only on one stone… I wonder why???

Some of them were really creepy.

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Do not want to visit here late at night…

We stopped next to the Robert Burns Monument to check out the city below.

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We did this instead of tea time. #healthychoices

Then we climbed till we reached the summit of Calton Hill. At the top, there’s a fantastic view of the Firth of Forth flowing into the North Sea.

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Why hello, Firth of Forth!

The top of the hill is also the site of the National Monument. Intended as a tribute to soldiers and sailors of the Napoleonic Wars, it was never finished because of lack of funds. I thought it was pretty impressive nonetheless!

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Unfinished but still magnificent

Also on Calton Hill was the City Observatory, the Political Martyrs Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, and the Nelson Monument. I’m not sure which is which!

Stairway to heaven?

Stairway to heaven?

We walked back to the flat on the North Bridge, through the Royal Mile, and across Grassmarket. Since we weren’t ready for dinner, we decided to pick up Kyle and hit a pub for a pint first. We walked over the The Bee Hive Inn.

It was incredibly festive.

Just screams Christmas Day pub, no?

Just screams Christmas Day pub, no?

And the Guinness was delicious.

The more I drank, the better it got!

The more I drank, the better it got!

After a few pints we went back to the flat to finish up our Christmas day with the perfect Christmas movie, About, A Boy, three units.

Once you open your door to one person, anyone can come in… Happy Christmas, friends!

Why look, the Waldorf Astoria left me some treats!

Why look, the Waldorf Astoria left me some treats!

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Me and My Bestie Mary (Queen of Scots)

Amanda and Kyle decided to prepare a Christmas Eve feast, so I was on my own for the afternoon. What better way to follow-up a visit to a palace than a visit to a castle? I thought about changing into dry clothes, but since it was still threatening to rain I decided, what’s the point? My gloves were totally soaked so I left them off and shoved them in my pocket in case they dried later. They didn’t.

I didn’t have much time to linger since I’d heard Mary Queen of Scots would be making an appearance at 3:00. But I was cold and wet. I couldn’t change clothes because they were cleaning my room so I headed to Peacock Alley for some tea. I also ordered a ham and cheese sandwich. I love that the tea always comes with a cookie, because the ham and cheese sandwich was swimming in mayonnaise and some sort of tomato relish.

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Tea was good. Sandwich not so much. But… Cookie!

I headed out and it wasn’t raining, but there was a cold, cold wind. I walked up the hill to the castle, got my ticket, and went in search of the queen. I had no idea where to find her, but lucky for me, I just happened to be standing in the Great Hall, when she made her entrance.

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In Vienna they had billions of candelabras, in Scotland they are all about the swords and pikes.

When she entered she made a big deal about saying “good morning”. I’m not sure anyone but me knew she was coming and they all looked a little surprised. She said “let’s try that again” and went out and came back in. Apparently our response was disappointing. She told us we were to reply with “good morning, your grace”. Then she gave us lessons on how to bow and curtsey. It was very important that men bow but keep their right arms free. That way if any enemies were sneaking up on us, they’d be able to lop their heads off.

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Her royal grace, and my newest BFF, Mary!

As she was about to reenter, she stopped and said some of us looked quite foreign. She walked over to me and asked where I had come from. I said, “the United States.” She said, “Oh, well, I don’t have any idea where that is!” She asked a few more people and then she announced she needed a few people to form her entourage so she could make a proper entrance. She asked for volunteers but nobody stepped up so she said “Let’s start with you, lady from the United States.” She picked a few others from the crowd and then showed us the proper walk so that as we entered the “lesser people” would have enough time to show their appreciation. Then she told the “lesser people” to be sure to clap and cheer as we walked by and we would go very, very slowly so they’d have enough time to really appreciate us! The “special people” in the entourage were supposed to be keeping an eye out for enemies, she said they could be anywhere!

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Mary preparing room for the dancing!

She then talked about the holiday parties she liked to have at the castle. She said that dancing was an important part and then she said, “you there, lady from the United States, come out here and join my dance.” She picked five more people and made us stand in a circle. Then she showed us the moves. After a while she decided we needed music, since nobody had brought any instruments, she had the “lesser people” clap in time while we danced around and around.

When Mary left I headed to the Scottish Honors exhibit. This is what they call their crown jewels, though really sitting on the stone of destiny was much more important than the crown. It’s hard to see why cause the crown was exquisite and the stone of destiny was really just a big rock!

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Stone of Destiny is nice and all, but I’m all about the crowns.

Within that exhibit I learned that the Scottish people were not any fonder of Oliver Cromwell than the Irish, he must have been seriously lacking the interpersonal skills!

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Oliver Cromwell was not a popular man!

They don’t let you take pictures of the actual crown, but they have a great bronze replica as you enter the actual room.

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Replica of the Scottish Honors

I went from there to the Royal Apartments. This included the room where my friend Mary gave birth to her son James. It was a very small room, because as she points out there were enemies everywhere!

I took a stroll through the Prisoners of War exhibit. Their conditions were bleak.

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Prisoners of war at least got hammocks.

The sun was starting to set but I was still able to take a few pictures of the castle…

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St Margaret’s Chapel in Edinburgh Castle. Word has it the oldest building in the city!

And the view…

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A view of the city and the dog cemetery.

And a new friend…

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Pipers are big here.

Then it was time to walk to Kyle and Amanda’s flat for Christmas Eve dinner.

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Walking to Grassmarket on Christmas Eve.

While Kyle and Amanda cooked, Scott and I watched Harry Potter. Dinner was a turkey wrapped in bacon, stuffing, mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, and rolls. The best part was the yule log Amanda served for desert right next to the roaring fire.

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Christmas fire!

Tomorrow is Christmas and everything in Edinburgh is closed. We are going to celebrate at Kyle and Amanda’s and then take a hike through a local park. Happy Christmas, everyone!

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Highlights of Holyrood Palace

I’d done some research before I arrived and there were a couple of things I wanted to do in Edinburgh that were absolutes for me. One was visiting the Holyrood Palace and the other was being in Edinburgh Castle at the precise time to meet Mary, Queen of Scots. Both items were on my agenda for Christmas Eve.

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Amanda texted me to let me know they had some errands to run and might meet up with me in the afternoon at the castle, so I took off on my own. The route to the Palace was fairly simple from my hotel. A short walk through Grassmarket and then up the Royal Mile. I somehow skipped the whole Grassmarket part and ended up at the top of the Royal Mile, just outside the castle gates. There weren’t many people about so I strolled down the street snapping pictures of interesting sites like World’s End Close..

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The end of the world is right here!

 

And the really interesting exterior of the Scottish Parliament. It’s surrounded by a wall covered with great Scottish quotes.

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Scottish quote

 

I found my way to the Palace, which wasn’t hard since it’s pretty much the end of the road. Loved the doors.

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The kind of door I dream about.

 

And the magnificent entry way.

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My condo association should look into constructing one of these to impress our visitors.

 

Unfortunately, they don’t let you take pictures of the interior. It’s a shame too because I would have liked a picture of the thrones all done up in red velvet and gold thread. Have I told you I need more gold in my life? The thrones were beautiful and I love that the queen’s throne has a sort of booster seat in the form of an extra cushion, although if I were queen it would have to b at least… three times as big! I did manage to capture an image from the web for your viewing pleasure.

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Queen gets an extra cushion, of course!

 

I saw the King’s bedchamber. The bed was really impressive. What was even more impressive was that it wasn’t his actual bedroom. Apparently he only laid in the bed when he had important meetings and really wanted to impress people with his splendor. He slept in a much smaller bed in some room that was not a part of the tour. I imagine its pretty spartan if they still don’t want us taking a peek!

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I need a bedchamber where I can lay in bed and impress my most important visitors.

 

The tour included a trip through Mary Queen of Scots apartments. There was a harrowing spiral staircase that went from her state bedroom to her actual bedroom. Adjacent to the bedroom was her dining room. The dining room was literally only about twice as big as my walk in closet. There’s no way anyone is eating in my closet, though to be fair and given my “shopping problem”, maybe they could if I were to move out? Anyhow, the tiny dining room was significant because that’s where Mary, her ladies in waiting and her Italian secretary David Rizio were chilling when her husband, the jealous Lord Darnley, and a bunch of his posse showed up and dragged him out to Mary’s bedchamber where they stabbed him 56 times while Mary and her ladies looked on. Apparently she fled the palace for the castle, which was only a mile up the road. A year later her husband died mysteriously and she abdicated for her infant son, fled to England and imprisoned by her cousin Queen Elizabeth I. It’s no wonder she’s a bit paranoid! at the back of the palace are the remains of the Holyrood Abbey.

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How convenient to have your Abbey right outside your back door.

 

I decided to walk back to the hotel and check in with Amanda. As I made my way back up the Royal Mile it began to sprinkle. The sky wasn’t terribly overcast so I just kept going. As I topped the hill where the castle sits, the downpour began, along with the gale force winds. Since I was walking down the hill into the wind, I struggled to keep my hood up and my earmuffs kept sliding forward every time I put it back on. I had to hold onto them and by the time I arrived at the hotel I was soaking wet, though mostly on the front.

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You can’t even tell my wet fur is dripping all over me…

 

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Clotted Cream and Hot Apple Toddys. You Win UK.

It’s so easy to get from the airport to your fancy hotel when you arrive in Edinburgh. I didn’t even have to look for the bus ticket station. I just happened to walk by one as I was leaving the airport. It was 4 pounds to get the Airlink bus which stops right across the street from the Waldorf Astoria. A real bargain.

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Airlink, chaep ride from the airport that affords a lovely ride through the city.

The Waldorf Astoria is also known as The Caledonian and began as a Victorian railway station and hotel complex. It’s been totally updated and no longer has any trains at all! Even though you can sense the history in the very high ceilings and old fashioned window and crown molding, it’s very posh.

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Former rail station complex The Caledonian

When I arrived they had a room ready for me and had upgraded me to a deluxe room with a castle view. The view was stunning! There’s both a castle and an old church and in between in the distance you can see the top of the Big Wheel and the Giant Swings from the Christmas Market.

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My view to the right. Edinburgh Castle.

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My view to the left, St John’s Church.

I immediately jumped in the shower to wash my hair and recover my poor curls and afterwards I felt much better.

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No more blowouts. And no more drinking before a visit to the hair salon.

Amanda, Kyle and Scott arrived just in time for high tea in the Peacock Room. I hadn’t eaten since dinner on the flight the night before so I was really, really ready!

We ordered the festive tea since it was Christmas and it’s not everyday you have tea in Peacock Alley at the Caledonian, amiright? Anyhow, the savory tier included a few finger sandwiches and some duck pate that none of us were cultured enough to care for. The middle tier had plain and fruit scones with clotted cream (clotted cream proves the UK is superior to the US in my opinion). The top tier had all kinds of delicious goodness including some sort of eggnog mousse, macaroons, pumpkin muffins with a filling that was a lot like clotted cream, mincemeat pies, chocolate muffins, and a couple of slices of Christmas cake. Why can’t the US enjoy high tea? Where are our tea shops? Why is life so unfair?

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If life was fiar, we;d all have access to clotted cream. And tea time.

After tea we walked over to the Edinburgh Christmas Market. Kyle and Scott were cold since they hadn’t worn proper coats. Also they had sore feet, since they hadn’t worn proper shoes. And poor Scott hadn’t slept at all on his flight over and was running on some serious jet lag. They decided to go back to Kyle’s flat and change and meet us later for the Ghost Bus Tour. That wasn’t a problem for me at all since Amanda was willing to accompany me to the Christmas Tree Maze.

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Disney had it all wrong. Christmas markets are the happiest place on earth.

I’d been excited to participate in that since I’d found out they had one.Amanda warned me it was in Santa Land (kid zone) and that she thought it was primarily for children but was a good sport about coming along with me anyhow. We bought tickets and then had to wait in line to enter the maze. When it was our turn to enter, I complemented the girl taking our tickets on her stunning green hair. Seriously, it was very festive! Amanda thinks that’s why she told us about the hidden clues and gave us cards to participate. Apparently, there were five letters hidden throughout the maze. If we found them all and then unscrambled them to make the Christmas word, we could turn our cards in at the Elf Workshop for a special prize.

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Searching for clues to spell the special Scottish Christmas word… Robin?

My incredible spacial ability, combined with my superior decoding skills resulted in victory! I am still not sure why “Robin” is considered a Christmas word in Scotland, but who cares I won!

Victory is mine!

Victory is mine!

To celebrate my stunning victory, we decided to stop for some hot wine. We were in a Christmas market, how could we not? But suddenly we discovered a new treat, hot apply toddys. And just like that Edinburgh became the greatest city I have ever visited.

Hot apple toddy. Maybe better than hot wine. And you know how much I love hot wine...

Hot apple toddy. Maybe better than hot wine. And you know how much I love hot wine…

We walked back to the flat to meet Kyle and Scott and then all of us headed out for the Ghost Bus Tour. The bus was already there when we arrived and the top deck was already full. We got seats on the bottom with a great view of the screen. The bus took off and our creepy conductor AWOL and the driver Angus told us harrowing tales as they drove us around the city on an old Routemaster bus.

Super excellent ghost bus tour guide!

Super excellent ghost bus tour guide!

At one point, we stopped, got off and tromped over to a graveyard before we climbed back on and the tour continued.

So scared...

So scared…

After all the excitement, I caught a taxi back to the hotel. Pro tip: if you come to Edinburgh, and you really should, if you need to catch a taxi to the Waldorf Astoria, be sure to call it the Caledonian or they won’t have any idea where to take you!

Gotta run now, big day tomorrow…

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My Christmas Blowout

The vacay got off to a terrific start. First of all, my sister Cyndi invited me over for a coffee and a ride to the airport, since this involved free parking at her penthouse instead of airport parking, I was all for it. Having to wrap all of the Christmas presents she planned to put under her tree was a small price to pay…

Once I arrived at the airport. I spent some quality time in the Delta Sky Club before I headed out to the gate.

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Upgraded!

I didn’t have much of a view,

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Hey, did they forget to put windows in their brand new jets?

but leaning forward and angling my phone just so I could see as I flew right by Cyndi’s house on the first leg of the journey.

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Cyndi’s penthouse is RIGHT there.

I’ve only ever been to Terminal 2 at JFK, which always involves climbing out of the plane via the actual plane door, walking across the tarmac and then through an endless, drafty (and seemingly hastily constructed) tunnel to the terminal.

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Bundle up before you make the harrowing climb down the plan door with all your carryons.

There isn’t much in the terminal either, a couple of small restaurants and gift shops but not much more. I had to take a shuttle to Terminal 4 to catch my Virgin Atlantic flight. Imagine my surprise when I emerged from the shuttle bus into a high end shopping paradise!

I hustled through quickly because I’d heard there was a Bumble & Bumble spa in the Virgin Clubhouse and I was desperate for a haircut. They don’t book appointments online, only on site, so I was in a rush to get there before they booked the entire day. It was a little after 1, so I was worried they’d already been booked up.

Turns out I had nothing to worry about. The Virgin Clubhouse is closed from 8:30 am to 2:30 pm. I decided to check out the Terminal 4 Sky Club while I waited, since it was supposed to be some sort of flagship.

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Open sesame?

The Sky Club could not have been further from the Virgin Clubhouse and still been in the same terminal. By the time I window shopped along the way, I didn’t have a lot of time left to check out the lounge and make it back to the Clubhouse as soon as it opened. No problem, really, since it was exactly like every other Sky Club only bigger only with a “sky deck” that was WAY too cold to visit.

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I bet this is a lot of fun if it’s at least… sixty degrees warmer?

When I got back to the Clubhouse, I was the only one in line. Apparently I was the only one concerned with booking an appointment. They booked me for 4 so I settled at a table by the window to have a bit of lunch while I waited.

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A peek inside the Virgin Clubhouse with it’s “golden cascade of light”.

The Delta Sky Club has some sort of rice salad, marinated olives and mushrooms, some packaged cheese spreads and crackers and basic beers, wines, and liquors. They also allow you purchase meals, if you are so inclined. Not so much in the Clubhouse! They have a fantastic menu and as soon as I sat down there was a waiter taking my drink order. I opted for the champagne I mean it is a vacation, right? And the champagne was French. I also selected a couple of small plates, the cheese on toast and the goat cheese, walnut, and pear salad.

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Chris Rock was right. About all of it.

Both were delicious and honest to God, every time I took a sip of my champagne the waiter was there with the bottle to refill me. I had so much champagne, the gin drinks started to look appealing to me so I had a couple of those as well. Everything was complimentary, so I left a generous tip.

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Gin, how you tempt me…

By the time I staggered back to the spa, I was feeling really really good. That’s my only excuse for also generously tipping the girl who insisted I’d look much better with a blowout and then totally straightened my hair. I asked her if she could diffuse it instead and she pretended she didn’t even know what that was. By the time she trimmed a couple of inches off and ruined my curls, I’d kind of sobered up. I went back to the bar for another cocktail while I waited to catch my flight.

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Note to self: you do not like straight hair, don’t let them talk you into it. Also, sober up before your next appointment.

Boarding was smooth. The seats were plush purple leather.

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If there’s one thing I love it is plush purple leather.

The entertainment system was top notch! I was sitting with a British bloke who imports fine art and items for interior design. He was going home to visit friends for a couple of weeks and suggested I watch a British movie called 71 (gritty and dark, not my usual genre, but totally worth it!) enjoyed the peppered beef with mashed potatoes and sacked out for the ride.

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OK yes, there was a learning curve, but I’ve got this for the flight home!

I didn’t sleep much, I dozed off and on for a couple of hours, in spite of the plush purple leather seats. The sun was just rising as we approached London.

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Good morning London Town!

I had an hour and a half layover which was completely consumed by the transfer between terminals, the extensive lines through security, passport control, and my purchase of Naprone to take care of my splitting headache. I made it to the next gate just in time to board. Edinburgh was a one hour flight away!

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Christmas in Edinburgh

 

 

When my lovely niece Amanda moved to Scotland I bought my ticket to visit her at Christmas. It wouldn’t be right to let her experience Christmas without any family in a foreign land, right? So I bought my ticket and began planning my itinerary. I’m really selfless that way. Sadly, she had student loans to pay and employment in Scotland was not working out for her. She came home but decided to return with me since I already had my ticket and her boyfriend Kyle was still there studying sound engineering at the University of Edinburgh.

Tomorrow the adventure begins…

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Heading Home

My saddest days are the days I have to fly home from vacation, though I don’t have long to wait for my next one! Jenni and Delaney had a very early flight and were on their way home before I even work up. I had time to finish packing, hit the executive lounge for a quick breakfast, and walk across the street to catch the City Airport Train.

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I heart trains!

The train is a direct shot to the airport and only takes 15 minutes with comfy seats and video screens.

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Fancy ride to the airport

Once I arrived at the airport it was quite a hike to the Air France counter. Also, the lack of signs had me going in the wrong direction a few times! Eventually I found it, and checked my bag. That’s right, I checked it! I never check bags at home, but Air France limits the combined weight of all your carry on bags and since I had quite a bit of chocolate in there…

We boarded the flight to Paris pretty quickly. I was sitting next to some hot young British guys. We were in Premium Economy, which I believe I’ve already mentioned the French take very seriously! They brought a lovely breakfast that included a fresh macaroon and a glass of champagne.

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No idea what this was but it was DELICIOUS!

Sadly, our flight was a little behind schedule and by the time we landed at Charles de Gaulle I only had an hour until my next flight took off. This was a challenge, since I’d apparently landed in Terminal A and had to find Terminal L. Most of the signs are in French. Also, you have to pass through passport control in a random place (in the middle of a hallway), that involves standing in line, though I got into the elite line because of my premium economy seat! By the time I found my gate, they were already boarding, but thankfully there was a Laduree cart right next to the gate!

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Macaroons!

I enjoyed the flight tremendously. The food was good, the wine was plentiful, and the seat had a footrest and a power outlet. I watched Guardians of the Galaxy (again, two thumbs up), Her (I dozed off in the middle and missed the sexy computer scenes though from the looks of my seat mates they hadn’t), The Queen (outstanding!) and The Adjustment Bureau (Matt Damon is hawt!). When the plane finally landed, I made it through customs in less than five minutes. Global entry, baby! Sadly, it took another 20 to recover my bag and then 10 minutes on the curb while I waited for the parking shuttle. By the time I loaded up my car and left the lot, it was raining steadily and the height of rush hour. It’s good to be home?

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DC traffic welcomes me back!

 

 

 

 

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I Too Would Like to Spend My Summers in Schoebrunn

Schoebrunn is the Summer Palace for the Hapsburgs and is simply breathtaking. Though it was the summer palace back in the day and no doubt much harder to get to when you were moving your entire royal household by horse and carriage, it was only a few subways stops from our hotel. Convenient!

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One of the prettiest stops on the subway!

The exterior of the palace is really beautiful and there was a Christmas market set up in the front.

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Approaching the Palace with just about everybody else in Vienna apparently

We entered the building and I got concerned because the very first statue I saw reminded me an awful lot of Prague.

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Have I mentioned all of the disturbing statues I saw in Prague?

It got way better after that! Though we were once again banned from taking pictures on the inside. I captured a few from the web so you can enjoy it as well. I believe you’ll see why I’m considering a little redecoration when I get back to the condo…

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The Vieux-Laque room Empress Maria Theresia redecorated in honor of her late husband after his death in 1765.

The entire palace was dripping with gilt. I hope there’s a YouTube video out there so I can learn how to apply it to the condo…

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Wonder if there are any large heavenly ceiling decals available on Amazon…

Afterwards we walked through the gardens. Even though most of the gardens were dead, it was still stunning and there was a magnificent Gloriette perched on top of the hill over the Neptune Fountain.

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Gloriette and Neptune Fountain

We walked through and admired the statues…

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Garden art

Past the Neptune Fountain…

 

 

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Must come visit when it’s not frozen!

And then all the way up the hill to the Gloriette.

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Worth the walk!

We tried to go into the Gloriette where they have a cafe, but it was so packed we couldn’t find a seat. We gave up and walked back down to find one in the palace. Thankfully, they had a spot that was really warm and had sachertorte, which was on my list of things to try!

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Traditional Viennese food

Afterwards we spent a little time in the Christmas market.

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Hot wine

When we returned to the city we decided to take a walk and visit the last few Christmas markets on our list.

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No idea what this is, but it was glorious!

We found the first one beneath some magnificent domed building. It was also surrounded by charming little streets with interesting shops.

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Local chocolate shop window display. Turns out the snow globe was invented in Vienna.

We wandered aimlessly through the cold drizzle and found several Christmas markets tucked away on cute little streets.

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Though each one was unique…

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They had one thing in common…

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Hot wine!

We passed a small crowd gathered around a man playing the cello. He was magnificent!

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Coincidently, the cello is my favorite instrument.

Along the way we stopped for dinner. The food was delicious and the beer was even better and served in a mug that was bigger than my head (which is maybe why I can’t even remember what we ate!) We walked back to the hotel and enjoyed a few more shop windows.

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Austrian fashion is cool

It was bittersweet since we were heading home the next morning and Vienna just became my new favorite city!

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Last meal together in Vienna

 

 

 

 

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